How to Choose the Freshest Crab at Coastal Markets

Why freshness is the whole flavour

A crab that was pulled from the sea this morning tastes sweet, briny and clean. A crab that has sat in a warm market for three days tastes of ammonia and regret. No amount of garlic butter can rescue it. That is why choosing well at a coastal market is the single most important thing you will do for your supper. You do not need to be a fishmonger to judge a crab. You need your eyes, your nose and your hands. Here is how to use them.

Look at the eyes and the shell

Start with the eyes. On a live crab, they should be bright, black and slightly bulging. Dull, cloudy or sunken eyes mean the crab is tired, dying or already dead. Never buy a dead live crab. On a cooked crab, the eyes should still look glossy, not milky or shrivelled. Next, the shell. A fresh crab has a damp, glossy shell. It should feel cool and wet to the touch, as if it has just come out of the sea. A dry, chalky shell is a warning sign: the crab has been sitting out uncovered. A slimy shell is worse; it means poor storage or old age. For cooked crab, look for a rich orange-red or brown colour. Faded patches, black spots or a cracked shell with dark liquid inside are all reasons to walk away. Bright eyes and a damp shell are your first green lights.

Use your nose: the clean sea scent test

Smell is the most honest judge. Lean in close to the crab. You want a clean sea scent: think of cold seawater, wet seaweed and fresh ozone. That is the smell of a healthy crab. What you do not want is ammonia. Ammonia smells sharp, like stale urine or cleaning fluid. It means the proteins are breaking down. If you can smell ammonia from arm's length, do not buy that crab. A fishy or sour smell is also a bad sign, though less obvious than ammonia. For cooked crab, a sweet, briny note is good. A smell that makes you pull your head back is not. Your nose knows before your eyes do. Trust it.

Weight, movement and leg checks

Pick the crab up. It should feel heavy for its size. A heavy crab is full of meat and water; a light crab is mostly empty shell or has recently moulted, leaving little inside. For a live crab, watch for movement. A healthy crab will tuck its legs in, raise its claws, or try to pinch. If it hangs limp and unresponsive, leave it. For a cooked crab, press the legs. They should be firm, not rubbery or bendy. A fresh cooked crab's legs will resist slightly when you pull them, then snap cleanly. If they bend like a wet noodle, the crab is old or has been frozen and thawed badly. Also check the underside. Blackening around the joints or a soft, mushy feel is a sign of spoilage. Heavy, firm, and lively (or lively-looking) is what you want.

Ask the right questions at the stall

A good fishmonger or market seller will be proud to answer. Ask these questions, and listen carefully.

• When was it caught? For live crab, today or yesterday is ideal. For cooked crab, within the last 24 hours is best. Anything older than two days needs a very good reason and perfect chilling.
• Where was it caught? Local waters are a good sign. It means shorter travel time and fresher stock. If they say "off the coast" but cannot name a bay or a boat, be wary.
• How has it been stored? Live crab should be kept cool and damp, ideally in seawater. Cooked crab should be chilled on ice, never soaked in fresh water, which makes the meat soggy.
• Is it cooked or raw? If cooked, ask when. If raw, ask how to cook it. A good seller will tell you.

If the answers are vague or defensive, move on. There is always another stall.

From market to harbour supper: a final test and a simple serve

Once you get your crab home, the clock is ticking. Live crab should be cooked within a few hours. Cooked crab should be eaten within 24 hours. Before you cook or serve, do one last check. Tap the shell. A fresh cooked crab gives a firm, hollow tap. A dull thud can mean waterlogged meat. Pull one small leg. It should resist slightly and snap cleanly. Then it is time to eat. For a simple harbour supper, pick the white and brown meat into a bowl. Dress the white meat with a squeeze of lemon, a little chopped parsley and a pinch of sea salt. Serve the brown meat on hot toast or brown bread and butter. Add a crisp apple and a glass of something cold. That is the reward for choosing well. Fresh crab needs nothing more than respect.